Thirty minutes before opening, Moo’s Craft Barbecue already had a line of over 20 hungry customers waiting to feast.

After trying the food, it’s not hard to see why.

High school sweethearts Andrew and Michelle Muñoz have continued to draw long queues of people waiting to eat their Michelin Guide-featured Texas-style barbecue at Moo’s, located in Lincoln Heights. What began as an underground operation behind a family home in Lincoln Heights in 2017 flourished into a full-time brick-and-mortar business in 2021.

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The line moved quickly once Moo’s opened, but finding a table gets increasingly difficult throughout the day. Nonetheless, the restaurant offers varied seating, including a central high-top communal table, a bar, regular tables and an outdoor seating area in the back.

The menu consists of classic Texas barbecue meats such as brisket, pork ribs, sausages and beef ribs as a weekend special. Moo’s also offered sides including mac and cheese, baked beans and coleslaw.

As I approached the counter, I could immediately smell the meat being prepared and decided to try a platter of their most famous cuts – the brisket, pork ribs, beef ribs and sausage.

The buzz of excitement from the guests in line waiting to try food – and those inside the restaurant devouring their platters – gives Moo’s an energetic atmosphere. The staff was warm and the guests equally sociable when it came to recommending their own orders as I sat at a communal table.

Sitting in anticipation, I watched a substantial platter of meat and sides make its way toward my table. As the impressive smell of smoked meat wafted towards me, the generous portions immediately stood out.

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Forks and knives were provided, but looking around, it was evident they wouldn’t be necessary – by sheer gravity and its tenderness, the meat fell off the bone without the assistance of a utensil. That same tenderness carried through every cut – each was buttery enough to pull apart with ease and practically melted in my mouth.

The brisket was delicate and packed a full, but not overpowering, flavor. Thinly sliced, it wasn’t hard to handle nor difficult to chew. Its simplicity was a great segue into the pork and beef ribs, which were the stars of the show. Tender and loaded with spices and flavor, both sets of ribs provided their own unique flavor profile and shined as must-order items on the menu.

While there are sauces provided at each table, the succulent flavor embedded in each rib rendered them nonessential. The sausage was perhaps the most underwhelming of the meats, though not bad by any reasonable standard – perhaps just the meat customers could skip if they want to optimize their selection. While it was tasty and flavored with jalapeño and cheddar, it didn’t match the explosive flavor of the other meats.

The sides of mac and cheese and baked beans were also both delicious and great additions to a full platter for sharing. The mac and cheese was rich and creamy while the baked beans – loaded with chunks of brisket – brought a balanced level of sweetness to the savory taste of everything else on my plate.

While Moo’s Craft Barbecue makes for an excellent solo meal, it truly shines when shared with friends and family. The lively atmosphere and generous platters create an experience meant to be enjoyed together.