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Artscapes: Uncovering the rich past of the Watts Towers and its architect

The Watts Towers rise above homes in the South Central Los Angeles community of Watts. The hand-sculpted structures were built by Simon Rodia between 1921-1954.

Before You Go

  • Parking: Free
  • General Admission: $7
  • Guided Tours: Thurs. & Fri. 11 a.m. – 3 p.m., Sat. 10:30 a.m. – 3 p.m., Sun. 12 – 3 p.m.
  • Watts Towers Arts Center Hours: Wed. – Sat. 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., Sun. 12 – 4 p.m.

By Lauren Roberts

Jan. 11, 2012 12:20 a.m.

Lauren Roberts

The Watts Towers are comprised of several major structures embellished with thousands of pieces of glass and porcelain shards, tile and shells.

I’m not much for New Year’s resolutions, but I was determined to cross a major Los Angeles landmark off of my bucket list this break.

And when I finally made the trek to the Watts Towers, the structure became my favorite Los Angeles discovery yet.

The Watts Towers have the charming character of an over-decorated playground. Chipped china plates and vintage 7UP bottles reflect the glare of the sun, while tea cup handles protrude haphazardly from the spindled curves of the staggering construction.

The shimmering fragments are among thousands of pieces of glass and porcelain shards, tile and shells embellishing hand-sculpted structures built by Italian immigrant Simon “Sam” Rodia on East 107th Street in the community of Watts.

Nestled within a neighborhood of small single-story bungalows, the pointed obelisk-like towers are a magnificent sight ““ the tallest among them stands at 99 1/2 feet tall. In fact, it’s the tallest structure ever built by a single man.

The National Historic Landmark began as Rodia’s backyard hobby and became a 33-year art project, which he diligently built up from 1921-1954 using only hand tools. Impressions of Rodia’s hammer decorate the red concrete walls surrounding the towers alongside flower-shaped imprints made from antique faucet handles, combs and the rough outlines of the initials “SR.”

Though Rodia never formally trained as an artist, he used skills acquired while working in factories and as a bricklayer and tile-setter to assemble the structural steel core framework of the towers, which he wrapped in wire mesh and covered with mortar before adorning them with found objects, some provided by neighbors.

According to UCLA alumnus and tour guide James Janisse, Rodia’s project was modeled after sights from his hometown in Nola, Italy, and took particular inspiration from “gigli,” intricately carved wooden sculptures built and paraded to commemorate Saint Paolini in the town’s annual June festival.

Janisse said that Rodia purchased his home at 1765 East 107th St. with his project in mind, choosing the property for its clear visibility along the Red Car line, Los Angeles’ main transportation in the 1920s.

That decision got his work noticed by neighbors and commuters ““ some who labeled it the work of a madman, others that of a genius.

Though known as the Watts Towers, Rodia called his sculpture “Nuestro Pueblo,” Spanish for “our town.” It’s a fitting title for the work.

Today, the Watts Towers Arts Center honors Rodia’s creative spirit with a youth art center and rotating exhibits, including a current Pacific Standard Time show commemorating arts in the Watts community. The center also screens documentary footage of Rodia, including film of his daring climbing and construction, which he continued until his mid-60s.

When interviewed, Rodia said he wanted to build something for the people of his community to see, but his art has accomplished much more ““ the towers pay tribute to a man that proved anyone is capable of creating something remarkable.

Email Roberts at [email protected] if you’re looking to uncover Los Angeles’ hidden treasures. “Artscapes” runs every Wednesday.

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