Natural threads

A yoga state of mind

Staying au naturale in apparel often translates to the label “certified organic” ““ that is, produced without the use of synthetic pesticides or fertilizers.

Recycling or re-purposing materials like bike tires for a more vintage look also falls into the mix.

In the past decade, mounting environmental concerns have driven media and consumer attention toward fibers such as organic cotton and bamboo ““ but with high prices and slow production methods, it remains to be seen whether organic clothing is fit for the mass market.

With new-age appeal on their side, yogaware manufacturers have led the charge into sustainable fibers for a small clientele.

That includes San Francisco-based Clary Sage Organics, where recent UCLA alumna Annalise Ashdown has interned over the past two years.

The company produces its clothing in conjunction with local California farmers and “strive to offer the highest possible percentage of organic cotton” in apparel, according to the website.

Of course, ecological sensitivity comes with a hefty price tag.
A pair of yoga pants runs at about $80.

Despite that, the store survived the recession and even expanded.

Ashdown produces a pair of black cotton leggings made by the company ““ 97 percent organic cotton, 3 percent spandex.

Synthetic materials are softer, Ashdown admitted. But for her, being eco-conscious outweighs perfect physical comfort.

Do-it-yourself

A YouTube blog called Threadbanger inspired fourth-year fine arts student Hoangthy Ngo to make recyclables the focal point of her fashion. The blog instructed users on how to create fashion out of pre-existing materials.

Ngo started hitting up Goodwill stores for inexpensive consignment sweaters and shirts. To create a tube top dress, she
selected a pair of bright yellow beach-linen pants with an applique of lace at the bottom.

An elastic band in the pants turned into a temporary belt. The lace bottom of the pants became the top of the tube top.

Recycling is a significantly cheaper means of being eco-friendly than using organic materials, Ngo said. She has also learned how to use every scrap of material when she buys something new.

“A lot of scraps are wasted that can be used to make something else,” Ngo said.

The drawback: Despite the creativity and sustainability of recycling used clothes, the style cannot be mass-produced.

Not a trend

One fashion expert disputed the actual trendiness of organic clothing.

“It’s not a fashion trend,” said Ilse Metchek, executive director of the California Fashion Association, a nonprofit organization that provides information for business expansion and growth of the apparel and textile industry in the state.

The final choice, she said, comes down to the consumer. And consumers are not buying. At least, not on a large scale.

“You’re talking about mud-green, beige and cream ““ if everybody wants to look like that, that would be a trend. But they don’t,” said Metchek, who has more than five decades of experience in the industry.

For those reasons, mass manufacturers do not aspire toward organics, and companies touting organic products
remain niche businesses.

Metchek added that the buying and selling of eco-friendly garments are not dictated by the fall fashion catalogue.

“Organic cotton is not market driven,” Metchek said. “It’s driven by a social conscience.”

According to a report last year from the German-based Bremen Cotton Exchange, for all the attention devoted to organic cotton, the actual amount produced annually is relatively small.

In 2008-09, 175,000 tons of organic cotton was produced worldwide. By comparison, 23.4 million tons of conventional cotton were produced in the same year.

At the same time, cotton prices are rising across the board. Even inorganic cotton is triple the price than it was 18 months ago, Metchek said.

Cost and image are the leading reasons for the failure of eco-friendly clothing to generate hefty returns.

In addition to being highly expensive and slow to produce, truly organic clothes are not eye-catching, Metchek said. science.”