Culinary Connoisseur: “Gardens on Glendon”

At times, the culinary view of Westwood can seem a bit repetitive, filled with chain restaurants, small sandwich stands and fro-yo shops. But venture onto the Lindbrook strip of Westwood, and one is immediately taken by the plethora of higher-end ““ and higher-priced ““ restaurants.

Nestled on the corner of Lindbrook and Glendon, Gardens on Glendon appears very nondescript on the outside with its red brick walls and green shrubbery.

Upon entering this seemingly small establishment, one is taken aback by the many rooms, all brick-layered with wooden counters and old-fashioned chairs. Juxtaposed among the bricks is the center of the restaurant, an atrium with a glass ceiling surrounded by white Greek columns and filled with natural light, lanterns and a large tree.

The brick and predominance of sunlight, as opposed to light bulbs, serve to enhance the intimate nature of the restaurant, punctuated by the tea candles that lay at each table.

The menu boasts various selections of tapas, from tuna tartare to onion rings, served with a side of chips.

The signature and most popular tapa was the guacamole, made table-side, with varying degrees of spiciness. The cilantro, tomatoes and onions (and if you desire, Serrano peppers) were very liberally applied, making the guacamole a visual delight. Yet the taste did not live up to the high expectations. Though the ingredients were fresh and clean with amazing texture, the flavor was bland and a bit too salty.

The same conceit repeated itself throughout the night. Though presentation was beautiful and filled with eye-catching colors, the taste of the entrees failed to live up to the promise presented by their images.

For dinner entrees, guests can pick from classic comfort food such as hamburgers, meatloaf and sandwiches, or from dinner entrees such as ahi tuna, New York steak or veal.

At $18.50 for a hamburger, one expects the meat to be cooked to perfection and the fries crisp. For the most part, this ideal held true. The fries that lay beside the filet mignon burger were just the right degree of salty crunchiness, and the bun was soft. Yet the filet mignon, though cooked to a tender pinkness, lacked that certain flavor inherent in a good burger ““ and a good steak.

Another house special, the seared ahi tuna, served with a side of rosemary potatoes, foie gras and baby greens, failed to impress. The tuna, while steeply priced at $30, needed salt and spices to enhance the flavor, but the fish was very tender and fresh.

For dessert, the selection included specialty rice pudding, flourless chocolate cake and ice cream sundaes.

The triple-cream berry sundae, a Garden Specialty filled with vanilla ice cream, vanilla cream and seasonal berries, was a welcome contrast to the heat outside. As for the taste, the creams seemed purely ornamental and did little to enhance the flavor of the fruit, differing little from a cup of Pinkberry.

Despite the lackluster entrees, the service was friendly and prompt. That, coupled with the lovely decor and fresh ingredients, makes Gardens on Glendon an optimal place to take your parents when they come to L.A., especially since the prices are a little steeper and the clientele are older Westwood dwellers.

““ Diep Tran

E-mail Tran at [email protected].