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Culinary Connoisseur: Campagnola

By Natalie Edwards

Aug. 19, 2007 10:00 p.m.

Westwood is filled with hidden culinary treats, and Campagnola is one of them.

Walking into Campagnola, one of the several Italian restaurants dotting Westwood Boulevard, you will be immediately greeted with a warm “Buona sera!” from the Italian host.

The restaurant is clean and comfortable, with albeit slightly plain decor, but the food is exceptional. Campagnola’s strong suit as a restaurant is its casual romantic atmosphere, making it a fitting restaurant to take a date.

And in case you and your date find yourselves especially hungry, there’s no need to worry: There’s never a wait for this less-known spot. The crowd is subdued, mostly older couples on double dates enjoying the outdoor patio.

Freshly baked bread and additional thick slices of bread with pesto and tomato will arrive at your table as you sit. The circular bun is warm and delicious, if a touch too crusty. The accompanying olive tapenade nicely accents the pre-appetizer but tastes somewhat bland.

The menu is diverse, with salad and pizza staples alongside the less common offerings of tapas and specialty cheeses. The main attraction on the menu is the freshly made pasta. It is softer, chewier and fuller in taste than ordinary pasta and makes the restaurant’s lasagna especially delicious.

The portions are not too large, but just enough that dessert is still warranted. The restaurant also serves Italian beer ““ Birra Moretti ““ and has a full coffee bar, not to mention a separate wine menu. And there’s no pre-flaked Parmesan at this restaurant ““ after the food is delivered, a block of fresh cheese is proffered to shave over your dish.

The pesto arrived perfectly al dente, and the asparagus contained the right amount of crunchiness, but the chopped potatoes added too much starch and came slightly undercooked. Also, the ravioli filled with chard and mushrooms was overwhelmed by the tomato sauce. A side of cooked spinach and mashed potatoes was sufficient tasting but average.

Campagnola offers dishes that are wonderfully flavorful and remarkably authentic. Even their plainest dishes are tasty enough to experiment, and you can’t go wrong ordering the restu soups of pureed broccoli, an undeniably refreshing appetizer. And their salads ““ mounds of greens and fresh chopped vegetables flanked with large slices of cheese and drizzled with olive oil ““ are perfect to share.

The restaurant is within walking distance of UCLA, easily accessible by bus, and parking spaces are usually available. If you want to impress, valet parking is relatively cheap. With the moderately low prices, the authentic al dente pasta, and the romantically decorated table settings, you’re sure to return with that special someone.

““ Natalie Edwards

E-mail Edwards at [email protected].

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