Art Review: “Breaking the Mode”

“Breaking the Mode”

Sept. 17, 2006 – Jan. 7, 2007

LACMA

From dresses made of two concentric circles stuck together to
business suits done out of the same material as tracksuits,
LACMA’s “Breaking the Mode” fashion exhibit
challenges viewers’ preconceived notions about what defines
fashion.

The exhibit, which runs until Jan. 7, works in converses,
turning what is aesthetically pleasing upside down.

Museumgoers must stretch their ideas about the limits of beauty
as they encounter unconventional, surreal outfits; in some pieces,
the raw edges usually found on the inside of a garment are now on
the outside, and traditionally masculine matador outfits
incorporate feminine elements like lace and bonnets.

Organized into four sections ““ Construction, Material,
Concept, and Form ““ “Breaking the Mode” presents
interesting twists on the aesthetics of its respective
categories.

Each section presents an innovation in either the use of
textiles or the shaping of the body’s silhouette. Grace
Kelly-worthy ball gowns in pink chiffon and silk share the same
stage as a dominatrix-style black leather evening gown by European
designer Jean-Paul Gaultier.

Other ensembles more closely resemble works of art than actual
garments.

One such example is a cocktail dress by Gaultier. The lining,
which is cut larger than the outside layer, is twisted on the
bottom so that it flutters away with every step. Gaultier’s
dress looks like it should be worn by a mannequin in the Louvre
instead of at a wine and cheese party.

Right next to this dress is the love child of a Japanese kimono
and an evening gown: Rei Kawakubo’s interpretation of the
evening dress. With a bodice that resembles the obi sash of a
geisha and a dynamic painting of bamboo on the dress, Kawakubo
references intricate Japanese art while creating formal attire that
redefines the traditional evening gown look.

“Breaking the Mode” is not just an experiment in
subversion, however. Most designers showcased here are inspired by
the playful art of everyday objects.

In the Concept arena, Moschino showcases a “Dinner
Jacket” ensemble that mirrors the exhibit’s overlying
theme of surrealism. The dinner, or at least the silverware, is
literally on the jacket, which has alternating forks and spoons for
buttons.

Whether it is referencing the past or flouting the present,
“Breaking the Mode” puts a fun spin on fashion that
alludes to the future of design. There is likely no exhibit that
better proves that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.