Eat your heart out

EVE COHEN Napa Valley Grille on Glendon offers a vast selection
of wine and a special menu for Valentine’s Day.

Napa Valley Grille 1100 Glendon Avenue Westwood (310)
824-3322 Entrée Price Range:>$16-$29

The Napa Valley Grille is aiming to make their second
Valentine’s Day in Westwood very special with a carefully
selected menu of some of their signature dishes as well as a few
notable newcomers. Since opening its doors in Westwood just over a
year ago, the popularity of this Cal-French-Italian hybrid has not
waned even in the face of stiff competition from such culinary
heavy hitters as Palomino, Eurochow and Tengu. The restaurant
““ and its well-regarded brethren, Cafe del Rey (Marina del
Rey) and California Cafe (various locations) ““ has come to
symbolize reliably good California cuisine that tries hard to be
innovative. Executive chef Frank Fronda is at the helm of Napa
Valley Grille’s kitchen and serves up unconventional dishes
from his extensive, seasonally changing menu. Fronda’s
Valentine’s version of the menu showcases some of his best
dishes and, for the sake of intimacy, includes three “Just
for Two” entrée selections that invite diners to splurge
on spiced pecan crusted rack of lamb, lobster and veal medallions
or the more predictable boneless roasted free range chicken. First
courses range from the basic (baby spinach and endive salad) to the
complex (Foie gras and duck confit grilled cheese with honey
roasted figs and a sherry pomegranate reduction). The dishes here
are often more memorable for their accompanying elements than for
the main event, probably because each is defined by a preparation
that seeks either a delicacy or robustness of flavor. There’s
no doubt where the no-nonsense center cut filet mignon served with
rich gorgonzola ravioli, a pile of braised spinach, and a deeply
fruity pinot wine sauce falls on that spectrum. But even if you
order one of the more commanding entrées, be sure to save room
for dessert. The fact that chocolate is an aphrodisiac
shouldn’t be the only reason you try either the chocolate
bread pudding with crème anglais and blood orange slices or
the flourless chocolate cake.

Michael Falcone Border Grill in Santa Monica
offers its guests a special menu just for Valentine’s Day.

Border Grill 1445 4th Street Santa Monica (310) 451-1655
Entrée Price Range: $21-$29

The Border Grill’s fiesta de San Valentín may be just
the remedy for the usual white linen table cloth and candlelit
malaise of the traditional Valentine’s Day dinner. If you and
your special someone are in the mood to combine romance, fun and a
heaping dose of Latin spice, then this popular Santa Monica bastion
of unpretentious nouveau-Latin cuisine should not be overlooked.
Though there are only a total of eight items (four entradas and
four platos principales) on their custom-designed Valentine’s
menu, the choices are still difficult. The first-course empanadas
requeson ““ corn empanadas stuffed with squash blossoms and
ricotta cheese ““ are a tribute to the restaurant’s
ongoing success with a combination of disparate flavors into one
very original dish. The lobster relleno entrée ““ not a
regular menu item ““ promises to be a must-try. Half a Maine
lobster stuffed with onions, cilantro, lime and tomatillo served
over a watercress salad with grilled asparagus and poblano fried
rice is a sizable undertaking that showcases the creativity of the
kitchen. Their nightly menu is replete with selections where new
versions of traditional Cuban food sit side-by-side with dishes
that feature South American, Spanish and Mexican-influenced
flavors. If you like the unorthodoxy of Valentine’s day at
the Border Grill but are still craving romance, try the
restaurant’s “Fire and Ice” desert ““ melons
with rose petals. Perhaps not as romantic as a dozen long-stems,
but certainly tastier. The Border Grill is chef-owners Mary Sue
Milliken and Susan Feniger’s flagship restaurant. They have
since expanded to include a second Border Grill at the Mandalay Bay
Hotel in Las Vegas and Ciudad, an acclaimed downtown L.A. magnet
for multi-ethnic foods. Everything about the Santa Monica location
is loud ““ from the noise level to the background music to the
warm reds and yellows of the artwork on the walls and ceiling.
It’s sometimes so noisy in the restaurant that people sitting
at the opposite ends of their long tables will have to shout to
hear each other. The noise and the general fast-paced atmosphere
are an accepted part of life at the Border Grill and don’t
get in the way of the food. This place may be fun and casual but
reservations are highly recommended. Though the restaurant takes
walk-ins, they are famous for hour to hour-and-a-half waits,
especially after 6:30 p.m. And, of course, Valentine’s
reservations are essential. For a somewhat quieter dinner, request
a table near the front of the restaurant next to the large
floor-to-ceiling window. But if you can’t get a seat in the
regular dining room, you might be able to squat at the Mesa Grande
table where large and small parties shuffle in and out of
first-come, first-served seats that allow diners to choose from the
restaurant’s full menu.

Michael Falcone CHRIS BACKLEY/Daily Bruin
Moustache Cafe in Westwood has two floors of dining area and a tray
full of desserts.

Moustache Cafe 1071 Glendon Ave. (310) 208-6633
Entrée Price Range: $10-$18

The highlight of dinner at Moustache Cafe is dessert. It turns
out that hiding in a corner of Westwood is a French restaurant that
features, in addition to excellent authentic dishes, chocolate
souffles so good that they make you want to be French. The dining
space consists of a bar, cozy downstairs rooms, and a less
impressive upstairs section. Dark wood and beautiful lighting
fixtures add to the intimate atmosphere. The meal starts off with a
choice of hot or cold appetizers. Most of the hot starters are
seafood, and among the cold appetizers, the whole artichoke is a
tasty beginning. The entrées range from $10 crepes to $18 meat
and seafood dishes. Many of the entrees are served with thin, crisp
french fries that are definitely a treat. From the pasta selection,
both the angel hair pasta dish and the pasta primavera are
appetizing choices. Bavette aux echalottes, a sliced steak topped
with onions and served with french fries, is also a delicious meal.
And then there’s dessert. When taking orders for the main
course, the server frequently asks whether the patron wants a
souffle for dessert. Say yes, for two reasons. First, it’s
really that good. Second, it takes a long time to make, and
ordering after the entrée course is over will result in a long
delay (over 20 minutes). Sometimes there is a wait for dessert even
when it is ordered early, due to the fact that service throughout
the meal is sluggish, particularly during peak hours. Also, the
restaurant is a bit pricey for college students operating on a
tight budget, but the food is good enough to warrant dining there
for special occasions.

Mary Williams