Lebanese cafe offers lots for little cash

Wednesday, February 10, 1999

Lebanese cafe offers lots for little cash

FOOD: Excellent service, quality fare characterize authentic Mid
East eatery

By Lonnie Harris

Daily Bruin Staff

As the slightly atonal sounds of Middle Eastern music waft down
from the boom box above the counter, diners look over the very
foreign-appearing entrees laid before them. Among the many plates
of various substances lie babaganouj, hommos and even a peculiar
doughy confection called a bastilla. These and other unique
Lebanese treats await bold gourmands at Sunnin Lebanese Cafe, the
unassuming and delightful small restaurant located just down
Westwood from UCLA.

Sunnin Cafe at first look appears to be nothing more than a
small takeout stand, similar in size and appearance to any number
of Little Caesar’s pizza locations. However, behind the plain,
white counter lies hundreds of Middle Eastern ingredients, which
master chef Em-Toni crafts into various tasty and reasonably priced
dishes.

Immediately upon entering the small structure, waiters warmly
greet diners and escort them to one of the small tables. Unlike
many restaurants of Sunnin’s size, including the nearby Panda Cave,
the service is of high quality, as would be expected in larger,
more expensive restaurants. Food is brought promptly after
ordering, rare for any restaurant cooking food upon order.

The appetizer menu at Sunnin is nearly as long as the rest of
the menu put together. Many of the appetizers take the form of
dipping sauces served with slightly-toasted pita bread. These
include the well-known hommos – a concoction of paprika, garlic and
garbanzo beans – and babaganouj, a similar mixture made with
eggplant instead of beans. Both of these items, though somewhat of
an acquired taste, will delight anyone already familiar with their
unique and savory flavor.

Entrees run the gamut from the tradition (shish kabobs) to some
foods one wouldn’t normally consider Lebanese (whole baked fish
served with french fries). One speciality of the house deserving
mention is the bastilla, a collection of chicken, fileted with
ginger and served in a large, doughy ball of Filo bread. The
bastilla, though quite strong in flavor, will surely please any
palate that appreciates sweet, tender chicken.

The shish kabobs are served in ample portions with high quality
meat, and are complemented well by rice pilaf and small cucumber
salads. The chicken shish kabob platter is highlighted by a garlic
paste which, though awfully pungent and likely capable of clearing
barnacles off of a ship’s hull, still provides a needed kick to the
chicken.

The selection of desserts is somewhat limited, though most
diners will probably opt simply to try some of the baklava. These
cookies, with a nut and honey filling, are quite good, although
some of the other dessert items, like ashta (bananas mixed with
honey and cream) aren’t really as sweet as the American palate is
accustomed to.

For having such tasty, diverse and exotic foods, Sunnin’s prices
are remarkably low, with most meals coming in at less than $7 each.
Appetizers, too, are quite reasonable, allowing a group of several
people to eat their fill for less than $20.

The ambience is as simple as can be, with a few pieces of
Lebanese artwork hanging above the doorways and the aforementioned
Arabian tunes playing constantly. All in all, Sunnin counts as one
of the better Westwood stops for students looking for a little
non-traditional cuisine.GREG HOM

Chefs Fransisco Zavala (front) and Jaime Sanchez prepare for
lunch patrons at the Sunnin Cafe on Westwood Blvd.

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