Wunderbar! German restaurant has all the right stuff

Wednesday, February 3, 1999

Wunderbar! German restaurant has all the right stuff

FOOD: Authentic cuisine at Mosel Cellar a tastier alternative to
college fare

By Vanessa VanderZanden

Daily Bruin Senior Staff

Bleitzkreig! There’s meat falling from the rafters in this
place! Vegetarians, take cover if you want to get out alive!

Yes, welcome to Mosel Cellar, the restaurant that boasts Russian
Eggs on Sausage Salad ($5.25) as an appetizer and has an entire
segment on the menu titled "From the Sausage Kitchen."

If you have any German blood in you at all, or just a craving
for something a little more substantial than tofu, then this is
your place. Located oddly at 1510 Pico Blvd. in Santa Monica,
amongst strip malls and gas stations, this quaint environment
brings patrons close to the burly, beating heart of an authentic
German bistro.

Decorated with curtained window-boxes next to each of the small
room’s intimate booths, one almost feels as though the customers at
nearby tables should be donning lederhosen and singing along to the
faintly audible oompa-pa bands playing on the stereo. The rustic
brick walls display intricate beer steins and lacquered porcelain
plates, which – together with the tudor-style wooden rafter ceiling
– offers a womb-like, home-hearth atmosphere. To top it off, the
waitresses, in traditional black jumpers over starched, white
blouses, couldn’t be sweeter or make customers more at home.

With their blonde hair rolled up in buns, they take orders as
amiably as if it were their own kitchen and customers were their
very own children. Food arrives speedily, but not so hurriedly so
as to make patrons feel rushed. And when leaving the parking lot,
the German-accented employees even wave goodbye, obviously taking
pride in a meal well-prepared.

And what a cuisine it is. All entrees are served with veggies of
the day, sauerkraut or red cabbage as well as potato dumplings,
fried potatoes or spaetzle. They also include a starter combo
salad, soup of the day, and hot bread rolls and butter.

That’s right all you weight-watching Angeleno waifs, Mosel
Cellar is going to feed you. But don’t flip out – the adequate
portions remain plentiful without going over the top. And even if
the quantity seems too much, there’s always the well-conceived-of
"take-home container" to save the day.

But first, what would a German eatery be without a half liter of
traditional Weisse beer to whet the palate? For those unfamiliar
with this fine beverage, the rich-bodied ale has a light, lemony
edge to it yet remains hearty enough to feel solid. For $4.75, this
hard-to-find refreshment is a must have.

Next comes the steaming Minestrone soup, unusual in that it has
spaghetti-style noodles floating in it – as opposed to the more
common macaroni shells. Along with the warm bread rolls, perfectly
crispy on the outside and soft in the middle, the soup goes down
soothingly. Thick and not too spicy, the vegetable-filled broth
remains relatively light and flavorful, though does it’s duty as
preamble to the heavier entrees.

Soon following, the combo salad arrives dripping in a zesty
Italian dressing. Cucumbers, red cabbage and onions pepper the
lettuce along with dill and tomato slices. Again, the serving stays
on the small side, leaving room for the primary order.

At $12.50, the German Sauerbraten, two thin slices of tender
beef, will make any hungry carnivore lick her chops and contentedly
grunt, "Fahrvegnugen." Swimming in a tangy and sour gravy, the dish
works best when accompanied by spaetzle, a sort of goopy
noodle-side that borders on tasting like soft potatoes. Coated with
parsley flakes, the starchy substance spongily absorbs the rich
sauce, while a side of shredded red cabbage offsets the meal with a
palate-cleansing, crisp tartness.

Another fine entree choice, also well worth the $12.50 charge,
comes in the form of Beef Rollade. The giant log of beef, stuffed
with a bacon and pickle center, comes smothered in an oniony gravy
which goes well over a side of the dense, peppery potato dumplings.
And, what would a German dinner be without sauerkraut, Mosel
Cellar’s version being not too runny or tough, maintaining a
substantial consistency with its pickly kick.

Fortunately, this meal proves filling without popping any
buttons. Though the final bill may run on the pricey side, just for
a break from college hangouts and snack-food-based dinners, Mosel
Cellar is a must visit. And, hey, you know you won’t run into
anyone you know, because the only people sensible enough to eat
real food anymore come from a few generations back.

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