Restaurant Review: Five Guys Burger and Fries

There’s a new set of deep fryers in town.

Toward the end of last quarter, the eternally revolving doors of Westwood Village welcomed the East Coast hamburger darling Five Guys Burgers and Fries to Broxton Avenue.

In-N-Out devotees may feel a confusing ambivalence toward this new face, simultaneously convinced that they could never be unfaithful to their animal-style fries, while sneaking furtive (perhaps longing?) glances at the new joint’s red-and-white-checkered front every time they amble past.

Fortunately, Five Guys is different enough, in good ways and bad, from In-N-Out to warrant its own niche in the Westwood burger-lover’s palate. First things first: Five Guys is a bit more expensive than its Southern California rival, but you do get more, and chances are a meal will not cost more than $10.

A true testament to the American fast food industry’s distaste for proportion, Five Guys has two burger sizes: Little, which is actually regular-sized, and Regular, which is a double burger with an extra beef patty. They also offer hot dogs and bacon burgers, and grilled cheese options for vegetarians.

Perhaps the most exciting part of the menu is the free toppings. Count them: there are 15. A burger with “everything” on it comes with ketchup, mayonnaise, mustard, grilled onions, grilled mushrooms, pickles, lettuce and tomatoes. Five Guys also offers raw onions, relish, A1 steak sauce, barbecue sauce, hot sauce, jalapenos and green peppers.

To stagger some of the decision fatigue, there are no premium toppings like avocado or chili to tempt the wallet. While it may seem appealing to go all out and stack up on everything, the overeager should be wary: Too many competing flavors cancel out, or at least strongly mask, the beef burger itself.

The burgers, which are all cooked well-done, have a homemade feel to them. The sesame-topped bun is soft and bread-y, not spongy like typical buns. It collapses with the first bite, but in a good way. Depending on the number of toppings, the burger can get incredibly messy, which adds a decadent feel to the whole experience.

The lettuce, which is the unsung hero of all good burgers, was disappointingly wilted, depriving the burger of its necessary crunch; toward the end, the lettuce just tasted soggy and algae-like. The mushrooms did not exactly taste “grilled” either.

The fries come thick, freshly cut and freshly fried, served “Five Guys”-style in a paper cup that runneth over, literally, so that a paper bag is required to capture all the glorious excess. That said, the regular-sized fries will serve two or three people, and those looking for an extra, spicy kick can order Cajun-style fries at no extra cost.

Few people care much about the quality of service from a fast-food restaurant ““ unless it’s slow. Only one cashier was working the register, which created an uncomfortably long line that dwindled far too slowly for a fast-food restaurant. This was odd, considering there were at least 10 employees working on the food orders in the back.

Fortunately for college students, Five Guys has ample indoor and outdoor seating, both two-seaters and tables that can be pushed together to fit larger groups. Even during the busier lunch and dinner hours, it is unlikely customers will be forced to take their food to-go for lack of tables.

A note for those with peanut allergies: The fries are fried in 100 percent peanut oil, and it’s also a “Five Guys” tradition to serve raw, shelled peanuts in bulk for free.

All in all, Five Guys is a down-to-earth burger spot that knows how to pile on the flavor and satisfy cravings.

So, peckish students heading with friends to In-N-Out or Chipotle may find themselves with a bit of a wandering eye for the new lunch joint in town. It’s OK to stare. While they’re at it, they might find that a new love is supplanting an old favorite. But really ““ who says they have to choose?

Email Cruz at [email protected].