High waves, lack of stormy conditions create favorable surfing conditions
By Marcus Torrey
Jan. 20, 2010 10:29 p.m.
Though a high surf advisory like the one issued this week for Los Angeles County is meant to deter people from going to the beach, many surfers find these warnings as opportune times to catch some waves.
Danny Hogan, a third-year environmental science student and member of the UCLA surf team, said high surf advisories, depending on the weather conditions, present a favorable time to surf.
“When you have the high surf advisory, and the storm is still off coast, that is the ideal time to go,” Hogan said, referring to the high waves and lack of stormy conditions.
However, right now, the storm is moving through with the high waves, causing windy conditions and making it a bad time to surf, he said.
This week’s storm is expected to bring waves as high as 10 feet, according to the National Weather Service. The advisory they issued will expire at 11 a.m. Friday.
Third-year communications studies student and president of the surf team Blake Lawless, said in an e-mail statement that there is a certain thrill associated with these advisories.
“(High surf) gives you a feeling of the ocean being in control, which is both unnerving and exhilarating,” he said.
While the big waves bring delight to surfers on the coast, the origins of these waves are far offshore.
“When there are really strong winds in the middle of the ocean, they develop really strong waves,” said Jim McWilliams, professor of earth sciences.
McWilliams said these types of waves could be dangerous to beach-goers and vessels close to shore.
Surfers are not immune to the dangers presented by these waves, either.
“One particular mistake is failing to see rip currents,” Lawless said. “If one is not savvy about the break they’re surfing, it’s easy to underestimate the power of currents and end up in a dangerous place.”
However, Hogan said there are precautions that are taken when they go out to surf.
When going out to surf during high surf advisories, he said it is important to bring people along with you. In addition, Hogan said when it comes to high surf advisories, you need to have experience, and you need to know your limits.
“Know what you can and can’t do,” he said.
