Food Review:
By Elizabeth Packer
Oct. 19, 2009 9:00 p.m.
There is a new, delicious addition to Los Angeles’ green scene. The Farmer’s Kitchen, a project of Sustainable Economic Enterprises of Los Angeles, gives diners a chance to sample the best of the produce from the nearby Hollywood Farmers’ Market.
The casual eatery had its grand opening in early October and has been serving up its seasonal, extremely fresh food ever since. In addition to the restaurant, the Farmer’s Kitchen will offer job-training programs, nutrition classes and retail space for farmers to sell their products directly, in its mission to create a sustainable food community for local urban residents.
The menu is brief ““ a few soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees ““ and changes weekly to reflect whatever is available from the farmers’ market. Curious customers can check out the current offerings online.
A recent visit heralded the arrival of autumn, with options like velvety roasted squash and apple soup served with toast, and a fall roast-chicken salad topped with pomegranate seeds and an apple cider vinaigrette.
Upon arrival, diners order at a counter where the friendly cashiers are happy to make recommendations. Servers bring heaping plates to scattered tables topped with checked tablecloths. One corner of the space houses a large refrigerator case full of produce from the market ““ overflowing baskets of multi-colored tomatoes, peppers and eggplants.
The Farmer’s Kitchen is refreshing in its simplicity. Unlike other restaurants that seem to scream with their dedication to the organic and sustainable, this unassuming place appears content to simply serve uncomplicated meals that allow the freshness of the ingredients to speak for themselves.
A side of cherry tomato and basil salad, for example, sounds pedestrian, yet far outshines other conceptions of the dish. At the Farmer’s Kitchen, the rosy chunks of tomato are candy sweet and tossed with ribbons of earthy basil, all coated in a tangy balsamic vinaigrette.
The deal is even sweeter considering the Farmer’s Kitchen’s affordable prices. Soups are $3.50, while salads, sandwiches and lunch specials range from $8 to $10.
One downside to the Farmer’s Kitchen concept is that dishes often run out since ingredients are limited by farmers’ supplies. The delectable-sounding fried zucchini blossoms were unavailable when I went, as was the multigrain and sourdough bread. Plus, it is only open for lunch Tuesday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Ultimately, the Farmer’s Kitchen is a great place for food that allows the high quality of ingredients to shine, with prices students can afford.
““ Elizabeth Packer
E-mail Packer at [email protected].
